05 May Herzliya,
Israel
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Our crew arrived at
0530 on Thursday, 5 May 05. Since they had been traveling for three
days, we decided to extend their jet lag by going for picnic in a lovely
park (Gan Hashlosha) in the Golan Heights. Our friends Jean-Claude and
Patricia and their granddaughter Cami from Tololea took us to one of
their favorite spots. Three hot springs for swimming and a beautiful
area for a picnic.
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08 May
Herzliya to Cyprus |
We departed Herzliya on
Sunday, 8 May 05, to begin our summer cruise. The weather was predicted
with ~ 10 knots of wind and mild seas but the weather guessers missed
the underlying 1 - 2 meter swells so we had a pretty rough crossing. 12
hours of constant pounding out of the 18 hour trip. I actually broke out
the fishing pole and trolled during the first part of the trip but
didn't catch anything. We arrived in Cypress and are staying at a
beautiful marina near Limassol.
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Sightseeing in
Cyprus |
We rented a car to do
some sightseeing trips to Larnaca, the east coast of the island,
Nicosia, and Kyrenia on the North coast. Here are some photos of the old
city in Nicosia followed by the shots of the marina in Kyrenia and the
ride back to the south side of Cyprus.
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Friends from Nicosia |
We met our friends
Doros and Elenitsa Archilleos (we met them on our previous trip to
Cypress) and enjoyed two lovely evenings with their family. Shown are
Doros and Elenitsa with their new puppy Blackie. The second shot shows
four generations of Elenitsa family: her daughter Sotia and her mother
and grandmother. We enjoyed a traditional Cypriot dinner, called a
Mezedes (spelling is an optional condition for me). The weather is still
not cooperating fully so we plan to spend another two days here before
leaving for Turkey.
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15 - 18 May
Limassol to Finike, Turkey |
We left Cypress on
Saturday to take advantage of a short weather window. We made the trip
to Finike in under 16 hours and cruised really slow the last five miles
or so to arrive at the marina around 0700. Since we arrived on Sunday,
we didn't go through customs until Monday morning. Finike is the ancient
Phoenicia, the marina is well protected and there is a thriving city
with a really nice open air market. We went shopping for fresh veggies
and fruits. We met Jerry and Nancy from Indianapolis on L'ame Libre
(Free Soul - a Hylas 54' just like Wings) that have been cruising in the
Med for two years and are now headed back to the Caribbean.
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18 May
Finike to Gokaya |
We left Finike on
Tuesday for Gokkaya Limani (Limani is a small bay or cove) near Kerkova
Roads. It was a short ride of about 14 nm. This is a beautiful little
cove with lots of places to anchor and swing free. There is a restaurant
(the Smuggler's Inn) and a disco (although the disco was not open at
this point in the season). My thanks to Tony for this suggestion, it is
a great place. The water was crystal clear and cool thanks to a fresh
water spring feed. When we arrived there were several Gullets (the
homemade Turkish sailing vessels) but most of them left while we were
there and a new round came in that evening. We did some exploring in the
cove and islets. The islets had ruins, spectacular views, goats, and
caves. After a few beers and games of Shesh Besh (Backgammon), we had a
dinner in the restaurant. Here are some photos from both Mike and me.
The three masted gullet was all mahogany and was vanished to perfection
(even the hull). Talk about bright work.
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Sightseeing in Myra
and Demre |
On Thursday we took the
dinghy to Andraki and rented a car from a local fisherman to visit Myra
and Demre. We thought the SUV on Cypress was bad but as you can see,
this Fiat was even worse. I couldn't drive it since the driver's seat
wouldn't move back and my knees wouldn't clear the wheel. You could see
the road through the floor under the driver's seat and we went very slow
over the speed bumps since we didn't want to loose Mike. Myra is a
Lycian necropolis with the tombs carved from solid rock in a cliff face.
There was also a well preserved Roman amphitheater. Demre is the home of
St. Nicholas (of Santa Claus fame) so we visited the church and
surrounding shops.
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23 - 25 May
Gokaya to Kerkova |
We left Gokkaya after
the tour to Demre and Myra for Ugaciz Limani in Kerkova (a short trip of
less than 5 nm). We anchored on the west end of this huge, completely
protected cove. We went ashore for some provisions, a little
sightseeing, and dinner at Ibrahim's. Ibrahim and Hassan are two
brothers that run competing restaurants (sharing a common wall and a
family feud). We watched their fierce competition for incoming boats
with a great deal of amusement. Ibrahim brought out fresh bread in the
morning as a reward for our patronage and moments later we watched as
Hassan delivered bread to our neighbor. It is often said that cruising
is really just "boat maintenance in exotic places" so the
pictures of Mike and I rebuilding the anchor windless seems appropriate.
Mike and Bonnie then took the dinghy off to explore the nearby castle at
Kale Koy. Mike and I also helped to rescue a beautiful mahogany sailing
dinghy.
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25 - 26 May
Kerkova to Kas |
We left Kerkova for Kas
and stayed at the old harbor. The city is small but quite striking, lots
of interesting buildings, restaurants, and some stunning views. There is
a beautiful amphitheater there with a great view of the surrounding sea.
The mountains provide excellent opportunities for hang gliding, para-sailing,
and other sports. We had a wonderful meal at a local French restaurant -
Chez Evy - highly recommended to all.
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25 - 27 May
Kas to Fethiye |
We moved to Fethiye on
Tuesday and rented a car on Wednesday for some land touring. Here are
some photos of Tlos (an ancient city dating to the Hittites) and
Saklikent gorge carved by ice cold springs. You could wade along an 11
km stretch of it. We had lunch at a trout farm called Yaka Doga. On
Thursday, we went north to Dalyan, a river community with hot springs
and mud spas. The last photo is of Fethiye Korfezi (Bay) from one of the
mountain passes we traversed.
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27 May - 1 Jun
Fethiye to Gocek |
We traveled about 12 nm
to Gocek on Friday morning. We are in a nice anchorage near to
Cloverleaf and plan to remain here until Wednesday at least. Mike and
Bonnie fly out of Dalaman airport early Tuesday morning. We have
explored the town, shopped at the open air market, and on Monday I plan
to visit a metal shop to have them fabricate new water tanks and an
electronics shop to have them look at the Northstar GPS on the fly
bridge.
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1 - 6 Jun
Gocek to Fethiye to Wall Bay |
We moved back to Fethiye
on Wednesday and joined Bev, Dave, Rami, and Linda (from Elyan) for
dinner in Fethiye. On Thursday we met Danny on Regina and are invited
over to Cloverleaf for drinks at five. We will stay at this anchorage
until Sunday and then plan to head over to the Gocek area to explore
some new anchorages. We spent a couple of nights at Wall Bay with
Cloverleaf, Regina, Elyan and enjoyed a whole lamb on the spit.
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8 - 10 Jun
Wall Bay to Gocek and back to Wall Bay and
Fethiye |
We moved back to Gocek
to meet Didi and Masha when they flew into Dalaman on 9 Jun for a week
visit. We will be cruising to Marmaris while they are here. We spent one
night in Gocek and then traveled to Wall Bay to rejoin Elyan and
Cloverleaf for Shabbat. Even though the water was cold we were able to
swim and use the kayaks. We also took a climb up the surrounding hills
for some panoramic views. The ruins shown in the first photo are
purported from one of Cleopatra's bath houses. She bathed around as much
as Washington slept around so there are lots of them here in Turkey. We
had Shabbat dinner on the boat with Cloverleaf and Elyan. On Monday we
traveled to Fethiye and went on a land tour to Tlos, Yaka Doga, and
Saklikent to show Didi and Masha the sights.
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14 Jun
Fethiye to Marmaris |
On Tuesday we traveled
to Marmaris. We initially anchored in Kumlu Buku but when the wind came
up we pulled up anchor and went into Marmaris Yacht Marina. We intend to
have the water tanks replaced here and Didi and Masha departed here on
Thursday. On Tuesday we celebrated my birthday aboard Odelia. Tsipy
baked a lemon meringue pie and we had Donnie and Ruti from Benjamen and
Bob and Margaret from Suprr over to share in my celebration.
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8 - 12 Jul
Marmaris to Sarsala and Fethiye |
We had the old water
tanks removed from under the galley sole and replace with new, stainless
steel tanks. The first photo shows the old tanks after they removed the
front side. Ruti, Hana, Itzak, and Hemda arrived in Marmaris on
Thursday, 7 July. We enjoyed an evening in Marmaris and then departed
early on Friday for Fethiye Bay. We saw an extremely rare sight along
the way, a Turkish Navy diesel electric submarine. We spent Shabbat at
Sarsala Cove and enjoyed the swimming and beach. We cruised to Fethiye
on Sunday and had a nice dinner ashore in the old town. Tsipy, Ruti,
Hana, Hemda, and Itzak rented a car and took a land cruise to Tlos, Yaka
Doga, and Saklikent Gorge. Here are some photos.
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12 - 18 Jul
Fethiye to Gocek and Sarsala |
We returned Ruti and her
gang to Gocek for their return flight and then headed back out to one of
the pretty bays to anchor. We have arranged to pick up fuel on Monday
and then will return to Fethiye for Utz to reupholster the sofa in the
salon and the dinette. We have gotten pretty adept at the Turkish art of
anchoring in the small bays. The water is so deep that you can't free
swing since it takes too large of an area when the depth is 50 ft or
more. They anchor and then tie to a tree to restrict the swinging. I
drop the anchor and then keep the boat in reverse while Tsipy swims
ashore to tie to a tree. When we leave she swims ashore, releases the
line, and I pull her back to the boat. You can see the full moon over a
gullet in one the coves and some shots of Tsipy releasing our shore
line.
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21 - 31 Jul
Sarsala to Fethiye |
When we returned to
Fethiye we were delighted to catch up with Lisa our neighbor from
Herzliya. Yosi, Ruti, Israel, Aleena, and Judith were onboard. We had
lunch aboard Lisa, then Shabbat dinner aboard Odelia. On Sunday they
rented a van and we accompanied them to Saklikent Gorge and Ulu Deniz
(the Blue Lagoon) where we had a wonderful dinner at the White Dolphin
restaurant overlooking the entrance to the lagoon.
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Utz recovering sofa
and galley |
We are having the sofa
in the salon and the dinette reupholstered here in Fethiye. Utz's work
is great although we had to stay in the marina for more than a week.
Here are some photos.
|
31 Jul - 10 Aug
Fethiye to Gocek and back |
We moved back to Gocek
and picked up Motti and Jackie. We explored Gocek on Monday and then
moved to a remote bay on Tuesday to enjoy swimming and water toys. On
Wednesday we cruised over to Fethiye, did some shopping in the bazaar,
then rented a car to visit Tlos, Yaka Doga, Saklikent, and Olu Deniz. We
are leaving Fethiye on Friday morning and will relocate to one of the
coves in Skopea Limani, probably Tomb Bay if it is not too crowded, to
spend Shabbat. On Sunday we will return to Gocek so our guests can leave
on Monday. We plan to depart Gocek on Tuesday and begin our return to
Israel.
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10 - 14 Aug
Fethiye to Finike, Limassol, and Herzliya |
We departed Fethiye with
Shmolik and Hanuch for our return to Israel. We cruised to Finike, then
overnight to Limassol. We spent Shabbat in Cyprus and then departed on
Sunday for the overnight trip to Herzliya. |